Refinance Calculator
Compare your current mortgage to a new rate and term. See your monthly savings, the break-even point on closing costs, and how total interest changes over the life of the loan.
Current loan
New loan
Costs
Typically 2–5% of loan amount
Extra cash borrowed against equity, added to new loan balance
Enter your current and new loan details to see results.
Current payment (P&I)
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New payment (P&I)
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Monthly savings
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Break-even point
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Time to recoup closing costs
New loan amount
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Balance + cash out (if any)
Total interest comparison
Old loan (remaining term)
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New loan (full new term)
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Lifetime interest difference
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This compares total remaining interest on your old loan's remaining term versus your new loan's full new term. It's only a fair apples-to-apples comparison when the terms are similar in length — stretching to a new 30-year term after already paying down several years can increase total interest paid even when your monthly payment drops.
Rate sensitivity — monthly savings
| New rate | New payment | Monthly savings | Break-even |
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How it works
How mortgage refinancing works.
- 01
Compare your current payment to a new one
We calculate your current principal-and-interest payment from your remaining balance, rate, and remaining term, then calculate a new payment using your new rate, new term, and loan amount (balance plus any cash out). The difference is your monthly savings — or added cost if the new payment is higher.
- 02
Break-even point tells you when it pays off
Break-even = closing costs ÷ monthly savings. This tells you how many months of savings it takes to recover what you spent to refinance. If you plan to stay in the home longer than the break-even period, the refinance typically makes financial sense. Closing costs are shown here as an upfront out-of-pocket cost, not rolled into the new loan.
- 03
Watch total interest, not just monthly payment
A lower monthly payment does not always mean less interest paid overall. Resetting the clock to a new 30-year term after you have already paid down several years can increase total interest paid, even though the monthly bill drops. Compare total remaining interest on your old loan against total interest on your new loan's full term to see the full picture.
FAQ
Frequently asked questions.
What is the 2% rule for refinancing?
The 2% rule is a rule of thumb suggesting refinancing is worth considering only if your new rate is at least 1–2 percentage points lower than your current rate. It is a quick mental shortcut, but it ignores your actual closing costs, loan balance, and how long you plan to stay in the home — all of which matter more than a flat percentage. A small rate drop on a large balance you will hold for many years can be worth it, while a large drop on a small, soon-to-be-paid-off loan may not be. Instead of relying on the 2% rule, use this calculator's break-even point: divide your closing costs by your monthly savings to see exactly how many months it takes to come out ahead.
How much does it cost to refinance a $300,000 home?
Refinancing a $300,000 mortgage typically costs 2–5% of the loan amount, or roughly $6,000–$15,000. Common fee categories include: loan origination/underwriting fees (0.5–1.5% of the loan), appraisal fee ($400–$700), title search and title insurance ($1,000–$2,500), recording fees ($50–$250), credit report fees, and prepaid items like escrow for taxes and insurance. Some lenders offer lender credits that reduce upfront costs in exchange for a slightly higher interest rate. The exact total varies by state, lender, and whether you shop for third-party services like title insurance.
Is refinancing worth it for 1%?
It depends on your break-even point versus how long you plan to keep the loan. A 1-percentage-point rate drop can still produce meaningful monthly savings on a large balance with many years remaining — enough to recoup closing costs in 2–4 years in many cases. On a smaller balance or a loan you plan to pay off or sell soon, a 1% drop may not save enough to offset closing costs before you move. Enter your current balance, rates, and closing costs into this calculator to see your exact break-even point in months, then compare that to your expected time in the home.
Is it worth refinancing from 7% to 6%?
As a worked example: on a $300,000 balance, dropping from 7% to 6% on a 30-year term reduces the monthly principal-and-interest payment by roughly $200–$210/month (about $1,996 to $1,799 at those rates). With typical closing costs of $6,000, the break-even point would be around 28–30 months — a little over two years. If you plan to stay in the home longer than the break-even period, the refinance is generally worth it. Plug in your exact balance, remaining term, and closing costs above to get numbers specific to your situation.
What is a no-closing-cost refinance?
A no-closing-cost refinance does not mean the costs disappear — the lender instead covers them by charging you a slightly higher interest rate (a "lender credit"), or by rolling the closing costs into your new loan balance so you finance them over time. The tradeoff: a higher rate costs you more in interest over the life of the loan, while rolling costs into the balance means you pay interest on those costs too. This option can make sense if you plan to move or refinance again soon, since you avoid cash out of pocket now, but it typically costs more in total if you keep the loan long-term.
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Last updated: July 28, 2026